Go figure. Instead of working on my skirt suite I made yet another jersey dress. We had a couple of days of warm weather which inspired me to make an outfit suitable for summer. I like the New Look 6097 pattern because of the wrapped bodice and the casual skirt with pockets. For me it gives a vibe of tropical glamour. I choose to make view A which have a collar and half length sleeves as it makes it more feel like a complete outfit. As the summer in Sweden is not very tropical – to say the least – sleeves will come in handy also in mid of July.
I also choose this busy animal-like print fabric from my stash. It is almost too busy for the camera to focus… Off white and brown is normally not colors I feel comfortable wearing, but the strokes of burgundy made me dare to try it.
Below are some detail shot of the bodice, sleeves and the belt.
The sleeves have a flap from the inside to hold the edge of the sleeve up with a button. This was actually the first time I tried out the automatic buttonhole function on my Husqvarna Viking Opal sewing machine. You are supposed to be able to give the diameter of the button and then the buttonhole will be sewn automatically in accordance to that measurement. But this proved to be a challenge in stretchy knit fabrics as the fabric tended to stretch while sewing, making the buttonhole up to 5-6 mm longer. This even though I had a stable underlining to stiffen the flap. I did practice a number of times on a scrap but also had to unpick the sewn buttonhole on the flap a couple of time before I could get it good enough.
I made the belt that goes with the dress as well even though I’m not actually sure I will be using it. However, i made the extra effort to go ti a speciallty shop for sewing notions to find a buckle with a retro feel and matching buttons.
The pattern itself doesn’t call for a lining. However, I choose to put in a lining for the bodice and the skirt in a light weight off white rayon jersey. I did this for a couple of reasons. The pattern called for a quite thin neckline facing which i feared would flip and show. I,d then rather have something more pretty than the inside of the fabric to show. I also wanted to eliminate all risks of see through, both in the bodice and the skirt. But above all I just feel it more luxurious with the extra weight and substance of a lining. This is what the lining looks like.
I made the lining for the skirt as short as I thought practical as the lining tended to get too heavy. I think now it does the trick.
The dress has an elastic band in the waist wich I think feels comfortable and make the dress sit as it should. I finished all seams with a false overlock seam. With the extra layer of the lining , the pleats and the elastic I had to struggle to make the waistband not too bulky.
And this is what the dress look like on me, with and without the belt. At least I feel glamorous in it and can’t wait to get the opportunity to wear it.
Fining the right size when sewing garments in stretch I find to be a great challenge. I know I need to have negative ease if I want the garment to fit close. But how much negative ease is the question. For this dress I based my choice on the garments measurements given on the pattern pieces. I made a size 12 for the bodice and 14 for the skirt. According the given measurements a size 12 bodice is 9 cm smaller over the bust than my own measurements and it close to matches my measurements in the waist. The size 14 skirt is a couple of cm larger than my hip measurements which was good since I did not want the skirt to cling. For the skirt this turned out fine, but the bodice was first too large – which is not attractive or practical for a wrap neckline as it tends to make too much show. So I had to take in the sides first by sewing 1 cm inside the original seam and then another cm. This meant I ended up taking in the bodice about 8 cm (!). On the first picture above you can see that the wrap would be even a bit tighter in order for the lining not to show. I’ll experiment with putting in a hidden snap closure where the wrapping pieces meet in order to keep covered up.
To match the intake in the sleeves 4 cm which you can see was also good. So note to self is to try making a size 10 in New Look knit patterns next time.
I will make a review of this pattern on PatternReview.com which I hope you will be able to read here.
Until next time, happy sewing everyone!